As Kenya’s oldest living town, Lamu has a rich
and colorful history. The town was one of the
original string of Swahili settlements that
stretched from Somalia to Mozambique. It
remained a thriving port town through the
turbulent Portuguese invasions and later the
Omani domination of the 17th century. Lamu had a
slave-based economy until the turn of the 20th
century. When slavery was abolished in 1907 the
economy of the island suffered greatly. Only
recently has the influx of tourist dollars
revitalized the town’s growth.
Lamu appears to be a region almost frozen in
time.
The physical appearance and the character of the
town have changed very little over the
centuries. The narrow, winding streets
accommodate only pedestrian or donkey traffic.
The population of Lamu remains almost
exclusively Muslim. Men still wear full length
robes known as khanzus with kofia caps while
women cover themselves in the black wraparound
cloth common in other Islamic cultures. In the
early 1970s, Lamu became famous for its
reputation as an exotic, remote, and
self-contained society. It became a spiritual
center of sorts for hippies and other
non-conformists drawn to its undisturbed
traditional culture. Some people feel that
Lamu’s popularity and increased tourism will
ultimately undermine the unique value system and
culture of this Swahili settlement. Others
argue, however, that without the tourist
industry Lamu will suffer and stagnate.
There are numerous sights in and around Lamu
worth exploring. The architecture of the houses
and buildings is especially unique. Most
buildings date back to the 18th century or
before and are constructed out of local
materials including coral-rag blocks for the
walls, wooden floors supported by mangrove
poles, makuti roofs, and intricately carved
shutters for windows. The villages of Shela and
Matondoni, Lamu Fort, the Swahili House Museum,
and the Donkey Sanctuary should also be included
on every traveler’s itinerary.
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